Engine & Transmission
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As with any donor engine the first job is to strip it down, check it over, and replace all the worn bits! First thing to go is the standard flywheel which quite literally weighs a tonne! |
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Soon to be replaced by this nice lightened version. |
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Got a bit carried away and forgot to take any pics, so here's one after I put the head back on with a new gasket. |
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The mondeo engine has lots of ancillary parts that you no longer need, i.e PAS pump, AC Compressor etc. These and the Water pump are all driven by a long serpentine belt. All this gets junked and you are left with an alternator and water pump both driven by a much smaller belt, however the water pump now rotates the wrong way. To overcome this problem you need to fit one from an Escort or Fiesta 1.6 or 1.8 Zetec. These are exactly the same pump but the impellor is designed to rotate the other way round. I will change the timing belt & tensioners once I fit my new pump. |
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The std Mondeo sump is way too big for this car and is going to be replaced with a cast ERA sump from Tiger. The oil pickup pipe will be too long for the new sump so it has to be sent to Tiger to be shortened. |
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Engine now finished. Changed the water pump for an Escort one, fitted new timing belt & tensioner kit, new cam cover & gasket. I have trial mounted the alternator to check for fitment. |
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The alternator used is a Lucas LRA100 or LRA101 and needs a few adjustments before it can be fitted. The alternator mountings may need rotating 120 degrees to enable you to fit it. This is easy to do by removing the plastic cover on the rear, undoing the 3 long bolts and rotating the front of the alternator until the fixings are in the right place. The top adjuster bracket is fitted using the end two inlet manifold bolts. |
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This shows the lower mounting bracket in place. You will also have to modify the pulley that Tiger supply as the alternator uses a woodruff key to locate the fan and pulley but the new grooved pulley from Tiger doesn't have a keyway and instead relies on clamping force to hold it. The pulley is easily filed out and an M16 washer placed on the alternator spindle to space the fan away from the body. |
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The nice new inlet manifold in place ready for my twin Webers! |
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Quite a few people recommend the use of ARP conrod bolts as apparently the std Ford ones are a weak point. These aren't cheap at around £80 for 8, but cheaper than a new engine! The top one is a std Ford bolt, the lower one the ARP replacement. These need to be fitted by tightening to 26lbft and then loosening off and re-torqueing 3 times. |
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The middle big end bolts changed, outer 2 still to do!. |
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The std Mondeo sump was binned due to ground clearance issues. I opted for the cast ERA sump (because it was free) rather than a modified Mondeo one. As the sump is much shorter now the oil pickup was modified by Tiger, and needs 'adjusting' to give 8mm clearance. This was measured by using a lump of blu tack on the pick up, replacing the sump, removing again, then measuring the height of the blu tack. |
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Engine finished! - All I need to do now is work out how to get it off the stand.... |
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Spent a whole afternoon cleaning 15yrs worth of muck off the gearbox. Used 2 cans of Mr Muscle oven cleaner and 3 cans of carb cleaner! Eventually it looked like this! |
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The gear lever on the type 9 is too far forward when fitted to a 7'esque car like the Tiger, it would come out somewhere under the dash board. To overcome this problem I am fitting a 'westfield' type remote gearlever assy. The first step is to remove the std gearlever and then remove the reverse stop from the gearbox. This is a small piece of metal about an inch long that slides into the right hand side of the selector assy. This is simply knocked out with a chisel, the pic of the left shows it after its removed. |
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The gear lever is then fitted to the remote. |
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Then the remote is fitted to the gearbox. |
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The type 9 gearbox is designed for use with the pinto engine which is quite a lot fatter than the Zetec engine. I decided that rather than have large gaps around the bellhousing I would make up an adaptor plate from 0.6mm galvanised steel. |
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The gearbox was placed on the sheet and I drew around it, then I placed the Zetec plate and drew around the inside of that. This is what I ended up with. |
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The lightened flywheel from Tiger comes bare. The ring gear needs to be fitted (place in oven for 30 mins on full whack, then gently tap home with a club hammer), and 3 dowels need to be purchased from Fords to locate the clutch. |
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Clutch cover dowels. |
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The dowels fitted!. |
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The flywheel was fitted with new bolts (from Ford) and torqued to 110Nm. The clutch was fitted using new bolts from Ford (mondeo) however they were too long and needed 3mm cutting off them. |
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Once I had bolted the gearbox to the engine I realised I couldn't get the car back in the garage (Doh!). I decided to see if it was possible to fit the engine and gearbox by myself without a hoist! It is, but I wouldn't recommend it... I placed the engine & box on a trolley jack, removed the front wheels and lifted the chassis over the engine and down on to axle stands. |
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Using a block of wood to simulate the engine mounts before drilling the holes. The engine bay is really designed for a pinto and there is very little clearance for the zetec. I had to fit the rear carb and make sure it cleared the brake master cylinder, then fit the exhaust headers and make sure they cleared the chassis rails. There was only a few mm either side |
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Lining up the gearbox would have been easier with a helper! |
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O/s engine mount bracket |
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There we go - On all four wheels with the engine and gearbox in. |
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Tiger recommend using the std Mondeo water pump pulley, this however isn't grooved and I should imagine that wouldn't do the belt a lot of good after time. This is easily resolved with the use of a Ford Focus water pump pulley which is grooved. |
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The 4PK900 belt that Tiger supply was never going to fit over the pulleys, this was swapped for a 4PK925 which is 25mm longer. This was too big now so the alternator bottom bracket was spaced away from the block with a few washers. |
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The n/s engine mount plate needs the corner cutting off to enable the starter motor to fit. |
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Starter motor fitted!. |
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I decided that the engine was too low and the exhaust headers were too near chassis rail, and the rear carb was too near the chassis. The standard engine mounts are QH EM670 which normally fit Cortina's and Capri's. There is also an EM672 which fit's Capri's and Granada's which is approx 15mm higher. I swapped the std mounts for the higher ones which gives a lot more clearance. |
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The engine was then treated to a new set of plugs, leads, and coil. |
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The exhaust headers in place. |
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I decided to spend some more money and fit a quickshift gearlever from Quaiffe. As you can see from the pic the std sierra lever is unnecessarily long and will be replaced with this nice shorter version from Caterham. This should have been a case of 'unbolt the old one & replace' however the circular locator ring on the bottom of the new lever was bigger in diameter than the hole in the tiger remote. I spent ages trying to cut a bigger hole in the 5mm thick steel plate with a blunt jigsaw.... |
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Next job was to cover the exhaust headers with heat wrap tape and bolt them in place. |
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Once the headers were in place the collector simply pushes into place and the silencer finishes it off..... (yeah right!) |
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What really happens is the 4 small pieces of tube that are welded together to make the collector all distort from the heat of welding. This now means they are no longer circular and therefore need plenty of adjustment with a large mallet before they come even close to fitting. Persevere though, as eventually with the aid of a larger hammer the collector 'slots' into place! The next job is to file the edges down on the silencer as there is no way its going to pass an SVA test with all those sharp edges - Thanks Tiger.. |
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The std Tiger exhaust should fail the SVA test as it has sharp edges (stupid rule if you ask me, i'd be more worried about the skin melting temperature than a few sharp edges!). Step 1 was to grind the welds down using an angle grinder. This will be finished off later and made to look all pretty! |
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The throttle linkages should really have been fitted to the carbs before they were bolted to the manifold, never mind, I like a challenge! |
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Gave up, took one of the carbs off and fitted the linkage... |
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Another piccy of the linkage, nice isn't it..... |
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The cooling system needed finishing off which was a real pain. The mondeo thermostat housing has 2 different sized pipes for the heater circuit. As I am not bothering with a heater I had to plumb these into the cooling system somehow. Tiger supply an aluminium joiner pipe that is designed to be fitted to the bottom rad hose, and then the heater pipes are joined from there. I cut this pipe in 2 and fitted it to the large outlet pipe from the thermostat housing and joined the heater pipes there instead. (The picture makes more sense, honest!) |
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I have a couple of oil leaks on the engine. This first is coming from a pin prick hole in the sump just below the drain plug (arrow). |
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Rather than take the sump off and send it back to Tiger I have used some 'JB' weld and so far it seems to be holding. |
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I have given up with the
Tiger supplied remote! After speaking to Chester Sports cars
and asking them why I couldn't seem to select any gears and
why the gear lever hit the handbrake in 2nd, they suggested
a Westfield gear remote... £80 well spent if you ask me. I can now select all gears easily, and as you can see its much shorter so it doesn't hit the handbrake anymore. It also has the reverse stop welded on in the right place. |
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Been having trouble with the standard alternator not charging properly. The LRA100 (or LRA101) is designed to be run with a larger V pulley - which means it normally turns at a slower speed. The output is also a stingy 34 Amps. |
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I spent the last few days trawling the alternator catalogues and came up with this Bosch one (BX3621 or Lucas LRB159). This fits a Ford diesel, has a 5PK pulley as standard and puts out 65 Amps. The overall size is about the same and it uses the same mounting points.... |
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Once bolted in place you have to cut off the standard 3 pin wiring plug. Connect the thick brown wire the the B+ terminal with a ring terminal, and the smaller diameter warning light wire to the D+ terminal. The W+ terminal is a phase tap terminal and can be ignored (unless your putting a ford diesel engine in your tiger....) |
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This shows it all bolted up and aligned. |
